Guests sit at tables with checked tablecloths in the dining room of the restaurant Nikolozi at 34 Anton Katalikosi Street in the Old Town of Tbilisi, Georgia. Framed family photographs and pictures hang on the white-painted brick wall, and old books and photos stand on the shelves. A woven rug with red, yellow and blue diamond patterns hangs on the right. Blue light glows in the background. The hosts Dodo and Beso run the restaurant. They write the menu by hand, serve wine from their own vineyards and accept cash only. Dodo was once a professional footballer, for a time in Germany.