Host Dodo (left) waves in front of the entrance to his restaurant Nikolozi at 34 Anton Katalikosi Street in the Old Town of Tbilisi, Georgia, with his arm around journalist Angela Berg (right). Ivy covers the façade of the old building and the wrought-iron canopy over the door. A cat sits in the entrance, and a small table and chairs stand on the pavement on the right. The hosts Dodo and Beso run the restaurant. They write the menu by hand, serve wine from their own vineyards and accept cash only. Family photographs hang on the walls. Dodo was once a professional footballer, for a time in Germ