. Shore processes and shoreline development . up the entire wave form, the deficiency manifesting itselfas a hollowing of the front of the wave. The water availableendeavors to curve around through the entire orbit, but on reach-ing the top of the circle finds itself unsupported and collapses. The form of a breaking wave is not that which should existif friction were the principal cause of the surf. If the observercan secure a position where the wave profile is discernible, hewill find that there is a steepening of the wave front, to be sure,but the form does not suggest a steepening due to fo

- Image ID: 2CJ0K7T

. Shore processes and shoreline development . up the entire wave form, the deficiency manifesting itselfas a hollowing of the front of the wave. The water availableendeavors to curve around through the entire orbit, but on reach-ing the top of the circle finds itself unsupported and collapses. The form of a breaking wave is not that which should existif friction were the principal cause of the surf. If the observercan secure a position where the wave profile is discernible, hewill find that there is a steepening of the wave front, to be sure,but the form does not suggest a steepening due to fo

Reading Room 2020 / Alamy Stock Photo

Image ID: 2CJ0K7T

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